No Products in the Cart
Using a serger is one of the best ways to finish your seams. However, if you are new to sewing, or you do not have a serger, a zig zag or an ‘overlock’ stitch on your normal sewing machine can be used instead. Alternatively, you can trim the raw edges with pinking shears to create a ‘wavy’ edge.
Finishing the raw edges on your fabrics is particularly important when you are sewing with fabric that is liable to fray e.g. woven fabric such as cotton. Finishing the raw edges will prevent the yarns from coming out of the fabric after you have finished the garment.
You can finish the raw edges prior to starting your project or at each stage. For teddy bear clothes, we use a small seam allowance of ¼ inch therefore it is more praticable to finish the raw edges prior to starting a project.
The Zig-Zag Stich
Almost all sewing machines come with a ‘zigzag’ stitch with an adjustable stitch width and stitch length. The zig-zag stitch can be used to finish the raw edges of your fabric.
To identify the zig-zag stitch on your machine, look at the stitch selector dial. Refer to the manufacturer's instruction book if you have a sewing machine with a digital display.
On the stitch dial on the left, the zig-zag stitches are in the 'C' section. Turning the dial to different points in this range will adjust how wide your zigzag stitch is.
Now look at the stitch length dial. Adjusting the stitch length while you are in zigzag mode will adjust how long your stitches are, i.e. a lower number will make the stitches look more compacted.
Note: The settings you require will vary with machine manufacturers and the type of fabric you are using.
Experiment with different stitch widths and stitch lengths. Aim for a stitch which resembles Example 3 in the picture on the left.
Sewing The Zig-Zag Stitch:
Set your machine to the desired zigzag stitch setting e.g. 1.5 / 2.0mm stitch length and 3.0 / 3.5mm stitch wide.
Make sure the presser foot you are using has a wide hole in the middle to allow the needle to move freely from side to side. Slowly turn the hand wheel towards you to check the needle doesn't hit the foot - adjust width of the zigzag if needed. Start to sew the zigzag stitch. The right-hand point of each zigzag should just reach the edge of your fabric. Reverse stitch on the zigzag setting at both ends of the seam -alternatively, back-tack on the straight stitch setting at either end of the seam.
When sewing your two pieces of fabric together, align the two zigzag seam edges together, and stitch the seam as normal. Press your seam allowance open.
If your zigzag stitch does not quite reach the edge of the fabric then trim the raw fabric edge back to the zigzag stitch to prevent the excess fabric from fraying.
The Overlock / Overedge Stitch
Depending on the model of sewing machine you have, there may be an ‘overlock/overedge’ stitch. The overlock/overedge stitch is a combination of a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch. The machine sews in a straight line, but in-between every set of straight stitches, it also sews a zigzag stitch.
On my sewing machine (Janome 4300 QDC) the ‘overlock/overedge’ stitch looks like this.
If your machine is able to sew an overlock/overedge stitch, check to see if you have a special overlock/overedge foot for your machine - they can look a little different depending on which model you have – the Janome has a little brush on the front but they don't all have this. The main feature of an overlock/overedge foot is a little buffer or guide on the back of the foot which you line up with the raw edges of the fabric - this makes it easier to get the zigzag stitch in the right position.
To Overlock / Overedge Your Fabric
Set your machine to the desired stitch width/length setting. Line up the edge of your fabric with the overlock/overedge foot’s guide bar and sew slowly to begin with – this will give you more control. If you’re sewing a curved seam, stop every few stitches to pivot and realign the edge of the fabric. When you finish sewing, don’t pull the fabric to the left to cut it – there is a small bar on the underside of the overlock foot, which stabilizes the zigzag stitches. Instead, pull the fabric toward the back of your sewing machine (i.e. away from you) to free it. Then you can pull to the side and cut your threads, as usual.
TIP: If finishing the raw edges on several pieces of fabric, start sewing the second piece of fabric immediately behind the first piece. This will allow the second piece to be taken up smoothly by the feed dogs. Once you have sewn all your pieces, simply cut the thread between each piece to separate them.
Using Pinking Shears
If your machine does not have a zigzag or overlock/overedge stitch then you could use pinking shears to create a jagged edge on the fabric. Pinking shears are scissors that have a zigzag blade that cuts a shaped edge in fabric. Cutting the edge this way makes the yarns of the fabric less likely to fray.
If using pinking shears, cut the edges of the fabric once you have sewn the seam then press the seam allowance open.
Conclusion:
You don't need a serger to achieve a neat finish on your teddy bear clothes - using a zigzag or overlock/overedge stitch on your sewing machine will give you great results. If your machine does not have either of those stitches, then pinking shears are also a good option.
